Chapter Two Over, now Chapter three

It was with a little frustration that we pulled out of San Francisco. I have always looked out for secure parking for the bike but even the owner of the hotel could not open the garage door due to a car parked right across it, Anyway as it happened the keys where found and the car moved and we could be on our way. I liked san Francisco and the break did both Sandra and I the power of good. We were hoping to meet Jim there. Jim was a chap who we had met in Fairbanks and was scheduled to be in San Francisco around that time. Sadly the timing wasn't quite right and we missed each other.

The ride out of town was uneventful thanks to all the chaps at Garmin and the NASA boys who launch satellites for our benefit. Our target was Yosemite and it was an easy ride to get there. We had bought a year long NP pass which allowed us to get in without paying at the door. Still seems odd paying to see a NATIONAL park. I can't imagine that we Brits would queue and pay 15 pounds to drive into the Lake District or the New Forest, but there you have it.

We camped at the first campground we came across, pitched the tent in the heat, bought some stuff to eat from the gas station and ate like royalty on salmon and potatoes salad. We had decided to drive into Yosemite Valley and out again, maybe stopping at another camp ground prior to leaving the park. The trip into the valley was well worth the detour and ,as we where early, not cluttered by other tourists. It was a loverly ride cool and perfect biking roads, the scenery as ever in the National parks breathtaking.


We ate in the valley and headed out again, heading east going past all the campgrounds till we found ourselves outside the park, so we decided to press on without a plan. This turned out to be a bad idea. Not that anything bad happened but the scenery almost instantly turns from lush greenery into endless yellow brush lands or desert. This always worries me when I have no destination in mind and have no idea where the next gas or, more importantly, water stop is. A quick review of the map whilst being battered by some sort of mini tornado indicated that the next stop, Benton, was easily doable. However both me and Sandra did not say a great deal as the landscape became more barren and the traffic scarce. This gave you the 'we are on our own' feeling again. We did however see a chap on a bike cycling the other way. Barking mad in my view - cycling in extreme conditions. Little did we know he was lost and his distraught wife was trying to locate him which became clear as we stopped for food in the only cafe, the only house almost, in Benton.

Whilst eating the lady came in somewhat distraught about her husband's whereabouts explaining what he looked like and what he was wearing. Of course we told her about our sighting and off she went to go and get him. Hopefully with a happy ending.

As we entered Nevada things got hotter and hotter. Each small town we passed through had bill boards explaining that gambling is the road to all riches and it was only a matter of time before you would become rich beyond your wildest dreams........ We decided to stop at Tonopah, an old mining town long past its hay day, but we liked it in a odd sort of way. We decided on a motel as camping in 100+ degrees F is out of the question. It had its fair share of other bikes at the hotel we decided to stay in. As you check in the hotel you get to role three dice. If all three dice show the same number you get to stay free. I got two threes and a two.....bugger!

It was very odd seeing the shed all grubby and feeling sorry for itself against a row of gleaming, and I mean gleaming, Harley Davidson. One couple were stopping to polish there bikes mid route. I have cleaned the shed once since I got her and I thought that was a little over the top. It was at this point that Sandra had noticed some oil on my right boot. A close inspection of the shed showed that the right hand cylinder had developed a bit of a leak. Now I had noticed this on the last service at Roy's house but this was a little worse though I felt manageable. We had already received a very kind offer from a chap named Keith in Texas who had offered help in maintaining and fixing the shed. I would be able to manage the leak until then.

From Tonopah the road takes you around the super secret area 51. This is where, allegedly, all the aliens from billions of miles away land and scare the willies out of the local inhabitants who take very dodgey photograph and lay claims to government cover ups. We didn't see one alien but did stop at the famous (well it said famous on the sign) Rachel. We had a bite to eat and looked at the inflatable, exact copies of captured aliens, and went on our way.

Riding was tough, very hot and incredibly strong winds from the south. Time after time we had to change course as the bike was pushed over to the wrong side of the road. I was glad to reach Caliente where we stopped for gas but then decided to stay in the Motel as we where both knackerd from the journey. A great room and Sandra and I watched movies all afternoon until the sun had gone down to a reasonable level that allowed outside walking without the need for 10 gallons of water every 5 feet.

Caliente has an unusual past based around the railroad. I won't go into it here but google it and take a look for yourself....... there will be questions next week!

An early start the next morning found us confronting a local (I think) who insisted on telling us why the local filling station has a dinosaur for a logo and why that dinosaurs front leg was raised. All a bit odd, I thought but he was nice enough and it seemed important to him. Already fueled up from the night before we set off to Saint George a town nestling in the bottom left hand Corner of Utah which we had already decided to hang around for a few days as I was feeling the strain of endless miles fighting cross winds and generally having a tough time of it. (sympathetic 'ahs' please). It would also give Sandra an opportunity to fix her hair which had gone a funny colour at the routes. Politeness prevents me from disclosing the colour but it didn't suit her so it had to be done. A couple of nice days spent at Saint George we even managed to air our smelly wet tent out and lots of other bits and bobs.

However the shed was feeling the strain too, we had noticed my right boot had more oil on it than was in the sump of the engine and the leak was getting worse, This was topped off by the old girl refusing to start at all on our departure day. She was getting tired after 10,000 miles or so.


The non starting was traced to the side stand switch being faulty so I removed it, and connected the two wires together, but the oil leak was getting very serious in my view and I did not want to wait till Texas to sort it. It would also need some specialist tools which I don't have with me. In addition to this we had some pressing time constants to meet my daughter Shelly in Mexico. We had a little chat and decided to go to the nearest major city or town after doing the local national parks to find a chap to fix the shed.

A call for help over the Internet found a chap who could help but in the opposite direction to Texas. What to do? We so wanted to meet up with Keith again but this would take us longer to fix the bike and add further risk of damage in just getting there. We made the decision to ride back west after the parks and get the bike sorted ASAP. We feel bad about not seeing Keith but this, we felt, was the best way.
Very carefully (with me checking the oil every time we stopped) we went on to Zion NP. What a great place with incredible rock formations and indescribable views

We were a little jaded about National Parks after Denali, but this time things were very different. Come and go as you please and generally you have a free 'ish' time. I liked it a lot

I also liked the tunnel out out of Zion - over a mile in length. From Zion it was onto Bryce NP and this turned out to be a nice surprise too. Not too crowded and lots of freedom to walk or ride. Again, mind boggling sculpture caved out by mother nature herself with incredible colours.


From Bryce it was a long ride back to Mount Carmel a quiet little collection of gas stations and motels between Bryce and the Grand Canyon

The next day was a short ride to the Canyon. It surprises me why anyone would take a camera to this wonderful place. You can snap all day long and you will not capture a millionth of this spectacular natural phenomena. It is simply the greatest thing I have ever seen. Visit it before you die and try and tell me any different. (Back to the realities of nursing a sick bike around in very hot temperatures) We headed back to saint George on route to San Diego and the man who could fix our bike.

It was time to have a little fun at saint George and, since the law permits bikers to ride without helmets, we decided to go and get our tea on the bike without our lids. I have never done this before and will not do it again. For those of you who own BMW motorcycles will know they are not the most sophisticated bike in the world and a helmet usually hides a gaggle of different noises coming from the gearbox engine and drive train. It's particularly bad when your BMW is 12 years old and spewing oil like a severed artery. What a collection bangs grinds and bumps! It can all be cured by keeping your helmet on, preferably with ear plugs in. I came off the bike a paranoid mess. Loaded with a big bucket of KFC finest selected chicken and twelve buds we went back to drown our sorrows......... it worked very well.

From saint George we set off the next morning. Helmets on and ear plugs buried deep deep into my ears we were heading south west to San Diego. The landscape again was hot, sandy, dry and still very windy but we pressed on, passing through Las Vegas (we couldn't bring ourselves to stop there) We did drive down the boulevard to see the endless gambling and night spots, then on towards San Diego. We stopped at Baker, another collection of motels, gas and gift shops and, it signposted, the gateway to death valley. We stayed the night in a cheap Mexican style motel which had a great pool, condemmend by the local authority which kept the crowds away, but not Sandra and I.

Then on to San Diego and sanctuary for the Shed. We have dropped her off and she is getting sorted by a very competent ex BMW racing guy. I am sure she will be back in fighting form. One advantage to coming to San Diego is we have met up with Jim who we met in Fairbanks. It was great to see him and catch up with all his stories of his travels and swap them with ours. He looked relaxed and happy proving that this traveling game can be good for you.
So now what. Well its goodbye USA (its been a blast) and Buenos Dias Mexico. The next few days will be interesting as we prepare for our first non English speaking country.




Adios